Nine metals, and they do not want the same things. Damascus asks for a wipe of oil; titanium asks for nothing at all. Neither is better. Treating one like the other is how a piece gets ruined.
Damascus steel
Carbon steel, folded and etched. It will rust if you let it. That is the trade for the pattern.
Damascus is layered carbon steel, folded and forge-welded, then acid-etched so the softer layers sit back and the pattern rises. That etch is what you are looking at, and it is a surface effect that can be polished off.
- It can rust. Dry it after washing your hands, and take it off before swimming. Chlorine and salt water are the two things that do real damage.
- Oil it occasionally. A drop of mineral oil, camellia oil or even a smear of Vaseline on a cloth, every few weeks.
- Never use abrasives. No polishing compound, no metal polish, no scouring. They flatten the etch and the pattern goes grey.
- If a spot of rust appears, it will usually come off with a soft cloth and a little oil. Do not attack it with steel wool.
Stainless Damascus and Damasteel are a different metal. Far more corrosion-resistant, and they need no oiling at all, though they still dislike harsh chemicals and abrasives. The product page tells you which one you are holding.
Titanium
Grade 5. Around half the weight of steel, hypoallergenic, essentially maintenance-free.
It does not rust, does not tarnish, and is the usual choice if nickel gives you trouble. Warm water, mild soap, soft cloth. That is the whole routine.
One caveat, on heat-anodized pieces. The colour is a thin oxide layer grown on the surface, not a dye or a coating. It will not chip or flake, but it can be abraded away by polishing compound or a hard scratch. Clean it gently and keep it away from a buffing wheel.
Zirconium
Black grown into the surface, not laid on top. Tough, though not indestructible.
Forged zirconium is oxidised until the surface converts to a hard black ceramic. It is harder than the metal beneath and it will not wear off with normal use. A sharp knock against stone or concrete can still chip through the ceramic layer and show the grey underneath. Soap and water is all it needs.
Timascus and mokuti
Titanium damascus. The colour is an oxide film, not a pigment, so never polish it.
Care for it exactly as you would titanium: inert, hypoallergenic, no oiling. The shifting blues and violets are a heat-formed oxide a few atoms thick, which is why an abrasive polish takes the colour off with it. A dry cloth is the whole routine.
Mokume gane
Four metals ageing at four different rates. That is the point of it.
Mokume contains copper, brass, nickel and silver forge-welded together. The dissimilar metals are what makes the grain, and they darken at different speeds. The copper and brass go first while the silver stays bright, so the pattern gets clearer with time rather than fainter. If you want it brighter, a soft jewellery cloth brings it back. If you like the depth, leave it alone.
Superconductor
Reclaimed magnet cable. The etch that reveals the honeycomb is shallow, so treat it gently.
Niobium-titanium filament in a copper matrix. The niobium is stable; the copper will patina and darken, which deepens the contrast against the filaments rather than spoiling it. A gentle polish with a soft cloth restores the brightness if you prefer it. No harsh chemicals: the etch is what makes the structure visible.
Copper and brass
Both will patina. It is reversible in about a minute, whenever you decide.
This is normal and, in our view, the best thing about them. If you want the shine back, a proprietary metal polish or the old trick of lemon juice and salt will do it. Rinse and dry thoroughly afterwards. Copper can leave a temporary green mark on skin; it is harmless and washes off, and a coat of clear lacquer inside the band prevents it if it bothers you.
Wood inlay
Sealed and stabilised, but still wood, and wood still moves.
Whiskey-barrel oak and stabilised hardwoods are sealed before they go near the metal, which is what stops them swelling and lifting away from the band.
- Do not soak it. Short contact with water is fine; a long bath, a daily hot shower or a swimming pool is not.
- Never use an ultrasonic cleaner. It will destroy a wood inlay.
- Re-oil occasionally. A trace of mineral oil on a cloth, once or twice a year, keeps it fed.
Leather
Full grain. It darkens with handling, which is the whole idea.
Keep cases and sleeves dry, and condition with a leather balm once or twice a year.
True of every piece
Four habits that outlast whichever metal you chose.
Take rings off for heavy lifting. Any solid metal ring can be caught and crushed against a bar. This is a safety point, not a care point.
Remove before swimming. Chlorine and salt water are hard on carbon steel, copper and wood alike.
Skip the ultrasonic cleaner on anything with wood, leather, or an etched or anodized surface.
Store pieces separately, not loose in a drawer where they scratch each other.
Something not covered here, or a piece that has not aged the way you expected? Get in touch. We would rather advise than have you guess.